Your guide to Alsace, France
How to get to Alsace?
Where to stay in Alsace?
What to do in Alsace?
Where to eat and drink in Alsace?
When we talk about Alsace, most will think about the Christmas Market in Strasbourg. The city of Strasbourg is the biggest in the Grand Est region of France. Alsace is a cultural region with border next to Germany and Switzerland. This makes the Alsatian culture a mix of German and French especially apparent in its traditional Alsatian cuisine. The Upper Rhine runs a long the east and the Vosges mountains along the west making it a natural geography for wine making. Alsace is one of the major wine region in France.
The region runs along the slopes of the Vosges mountains south of Strasbourg and north of the city of Basel in Switzerland. Traditional medieval wine making villages line up along the slopes of the mountains which is one of the main draws for visitor to Alsace today. The other major towns in the area includes Colmar and Mulhouse. Strasbourg and Colmar was the base that we chose to explore the region.
GETTING TO
The Strasbourg Airport is a regional airport and only serves a limited number of mainly European cities. If you are coming outside of Europe, the easiest way is to get to Frankfurt. Once you are in Frankfurt, I would highly recommend you to rent a car. The drive from Frankfurt Airport to the city of Strasburg takes about 2.5 hours. Although, like we did, we made a detour to Eberbach Abbey in Rheingau, Germany which is only a 45 minutes drive from the airport. We had a very early 7am arrival into Frankfurt so we basically had the whole day to get to Strasbourg. We didn’t want to rush to Strasbourg and wanted to visit the Abbey and have lunch at one of the Rheingau winery, Restaurant Les deux Dienstbach, before heading south to Strasbourg.
WHERE TO STAY
We’ve decided to spend 3 days in the city of Strasbourg and 3 days in the city of Colmar. Strasbourg is known for its Christmas Market and timber houses at the historical centre called Petite France. Colmar is around 1 hr drive south of Strasbourg and also known for its timber houses and the area called Little Venice.
We’ve stayed at the Cour du Corbeau Hotel Strasbourg and Hotel La Maison des Têtes – Relais & Châteaux – Hôtel Colmar & Restaurants at Colmar.
Strasbourg is a must visit when you visit Alsace as it is the capital and the biggest city of the region and also the the home of the European Parliament. Colmar further south is beautiful medieval town which is also a must visit in the region. It is a great base to explore the other medieval towns and wineries along the foothills of the Vosges mountain.
WHAT TO DO
Strasbourg
There are a lot of things to see and do in the city of Strasbourg. The Rhine river flows to the east of the city of Strasbourg and the Ill River flows through the historical centre of the city also known as Petite France. Strasbourg Cathedral is a must visit landmark in the city historical centre and housing the famous Astronomical Clock. Strasbourg is also the house of the European Parliament and you can visit the beautiful modern Parliament building. The hour long river cruise ride is also very much recommended. It gives you an overview of the city from the river and you can go through 2 canal locks and one right in the middle of Petite France. It is well worth it.
Colmar
Colmar is about an hour drive south of Strasbourg known for an area called “Little Venice” where you can get on a small boat and flow along the river that runs through the village. The timber houses are area is extremely beautiful. Colmar is also famous for the Unterlinden Museum which is well worth a visit.
The other must visit villages are Eguisheim, Riquewihr, Kaysersberg and Obernai.
If you are into cars, the town of Mulhouse has the Musée National de l’Automobile (National Automobile Museum), which houses the Schlumpf Collection and boasts the world’s largest collection of Bugatti cars.
WHERE TO EAT
Alsace is famous for its Alsatian Cuisine where it is a blend of German and French. These traditional cruisine are often found in “Weinstube” where Alsatian food is cooked in a traditional setting and of course with Alsatian wine. As always, there are numerous amazing restaurants in Alsace and it all depends on your preference and budget. Below are the ones I’ve went to and I would not hesitate to recommend them.
Restaurant Les deux Dienstbach – We made a lunch stop at this beautiful restaurant at the heart of the Rheingau wine region in Germany after visting the amazing Eberbach Abbey It is only a 45 minutes drive from Frankfurt airport. “Picturesquely located on the edge of the rustic old town of Hochheim and directly on the vineyards above the Main River, we welcome you to the historic manor house of the Künstler Winery, home of Les Deux. Authentic French gourmet cuisine, a select elegant ambiance, and a charming atmosphere are our ingredients for unforgettable moments full of enjoyment.”
Le Clou – There are a number of Winstubs serving traditional Alsatian cuisine but Le Clou is one I highly recommend. Once you step inside, you are stepping into a true Alsatian Winstub!
La Corde à Linge – Right at the middle of Petite France. Touristy – check. Location – check. Must go – check. Even if you are there just for a glass of resiling or coffee on the outdoor seating, just check it off the list.
Brasserie des Haras – Beautiful French & Alsatian menus in strikingly designed spaces in an 18th-century former stud farm. There is a hotel as well but come here for great food and a great wine list too!
Buerehiesel – Such a beautiful restaurant at the Orangerie Park. “Esteemed spot serving haute French cuisine in a timbered 1800s house with a glass conservatory. This picturesque, half-timbered 17C farmhouse was reconstructed stone by stone in the Orangerie Park, next-door to the Council of Europe. The conservatory dining room and patio command a bucolic view of this leafy haven. The menu features some of the house signature dishes, such as frog’s legs sautéed in chervil or free-range pullet roasted in a casserole dish (backeoffe), together with more contemporary seasonal recipes.”
Le Purgatoire – If you are looking for a wine bar with great wines and good food. This is the place to go. Great vibes and wines to satisfy all your desire. A lovely outside patio area as well as a cosy indoor dining room.
L’Auberge de l’Ill, Illhaeusern – Your 2 stars Michelin splurge if you are into Michelin restaurants. It is around 30 minutes drive south of Strasbourg between Strasbourg and Colmar at the village of Illhaeusern. The food and service is 2 stars Michelin and if that is not enough, you can enjoy your tea or coffee outdoors beside the river savouring in your time in France and Alsace. Must visit.
Hotel Restaurant Girardin – We stayed at the hotel, Hotel La Maison des Têtes, where the restaurant is located as well. It is a Michelin 1 Star and beautifully executed. The chef Eric Girardin, his restaurant shines through showing you the hospitality and food that you could dream of. The wine list and sommelier is TOP as well. Must visit in Colmor.
Au Canon d’Or – Located at the town of Mulhouse which is also where the Musée National de l’Automobile is located, this restaurant is a MUST as well. It gives you the homey French cuisine that you can only dream of. It was packed even on a weekday lunch with locals and that tells you something.
Amitié – La Cuisine du Château – If you find yourself further south in Alsace than you thought, this might be a good choice for you. At the village of Hartmannswiller and with lovely outdoor seating, this would be a fantastic lunch or early Summer evening dinner. This restaurant is part of Château Ollwiller which claims to be the second oldest vineyards in France.
Auberge Le Bouc Bleu – Another must visit at the village of Beblenheim. Homey cooking at a beautiful space with outdoor seating. It’s a small restaurant. Booking highly recommended. This is a must visit. Domaine Bott-Geyl is also located at this village which is a stone throw away. One of the best wineries in Alsace.
La Winstub du Chambard – Chambard is maybe the institution in Alsace located at the beautiful medieval village of Kaysersberg. The Relais & Châteaux hotel and with Olivier Nasti (Meilleur Ouvrier de France) 2 Michelin Stars restaurant, the Winstub is a more laid back place to enjoy amazing food and wine. Yes, this is the theme here, a MUST visit as well.
Thierry Schwartz – Obernai is a must visit in Alsace. The village is actually one of the prettiest in Alsace. No rivers no canals, just an open space in the middle of the square to enjoy your after coffee but if you are looking for great food and wine there is Thierry Schwartz. “Le Restaurant is a Michelin-starred (one red star for cuisine and one green star for sustainability) gourmet establishment in Obernai, Alsace, France, housed in a historic 16th-century half-timbered building dating back to 1589, nestled against the town’s medieval ramparts. Opened over 20 years ago, it specializes in natural, chemical-free cuisine emphasizing local, seasonal, and biodynamic products—95% sourced within 50 km from permaculture farms, market gardeners, and breeders. Chef Thierry Schwartz, an Alsatian native and Officer of the Order of Agricultural Merit, focuses on energetic, convivial dishes that highlight the terroir, such as pure spelt, arctic char, wild sorrel, and organic farm eggs, often prepared tableside (e.g., bread baking, butter churning) around a crackling fireplace in a rustic, wood-paneled dining room.”
THE WINERIES
Yes, wine is one of the primary reasons that I want to visit Alsace. I will write more in detail about Alsace wine in my winesnobbery.net blog but despite maybe not as big of a name as other French wine regions, Alsace makes amazing well priced wines that any wine snobs, enthusiast must drink. Yes, it’s about the white variety like the Rieslings but the only red varietal allowed in this AOC is Pinot Noir and do they make some amazing Pinot Noir as well. I am a big sparkling wine lover and Crémant d’Alsace is one of the best Crémant you can find in France.
There are too many to name but if you are looking into wine tourism there are a few that does open tours and tasting with a fee at their winery. Most you will need to contact them to make an appointment for a tasting or try your luck walking in. Below are a few that I would recommend.
Final Thoughts
Alsace was more than I have ever expected. I have always wanted to visit Strasbourg but it was so much more than just Strasbourg. Colmar was very beautiful as well as all the other medieval villages at the foot of the Vosges mountains. Not one of the most well known wine regions in France but after I’ve been there now and seen the slope of some of the vineyards are planted, I can understand why they make some of the best Riesling in the world. The trip was a bit rushed as always when I usually pack too much into a short period of time. I will go back in a heartbeat when I have another opportunity as Alsace really left a special place in my heart.
